How to wear a pleated coat now, looking back at his background and rich life in the fashion of the 20th century, understood 23-59.
In pleating – on a skirt, dress or blouse – there is always a retro touch that any outfit can bring to the state of “mom will like it”. Plisse is the main participant in many uniforms, from boarding dresses for girls at monastery shelters to a Soviet or private American school. The plisse that Coco Chanel provided with her little black dress went down in history: from that moment on, a small fold of fabric fixed the image of modesty and diligence. Nothing can destroy it, even repeated repetition of a pleated skirt made of extremely light fabric – as in the seasonal Gucci collection. Even a blouse with a soft voluminous bow and a small pleated skirt, sewn from a very transparent organza, look decent. They can even formally, if you put on the bottom of the correct opaque underwear or cover.
Gucci spring-summer 2016 collection
The pleated formality is constantly played out in the collections of the Japanese brand Sacai. Chitose Abe, Juni Watanabe's student, regularly redraws familiar things and adds unexpected details. Pleated is one of her favorite tricks: she combines the severity and severity of the fabric with delicate chiffons, gold jacquards or inserts wings and trains into sweatshirts, which in her performance look like a shirt and a sports jacket at the same time.
Sacai, spring-summer 2016 collection
At the same time, accordion pleats have a wonderful story, far from any formality of uniform. Madame Gre, who dreamed of being a sculptor, in her design career followed the principles of classical sculpture: repeating the logic of the body. Her dresses, reminiscent of Greek tunics, were assembled in such an ingenious design that the collector of the original Madame Gres, Azzedin Alaya, once admitted that he still can not unravel the secret of the design of some of the things. Madeline Vionnett also helped triumph the pleated in the world of sensual evening fashion. When the Vionnet brand was restarted in 2009, a large-scale exhibition dedicated to the designer was held at Les Arts Decoratifs. Several excursions were conducted by John Galliano, who in every way praised the idea of using fabric in a shallow pleat along an oblique – so the dress took shape and at the same time gently hugged the body. Looking like tunics, gathered diagonally and vertically from pleated, due to the ingenious cut, these dresses went to everyone and remained in history examples of smart evening fashion.
Today, these ideas are still popular in the field of evening fashion – Elie Saab continues to successfully dress women on the red carpet in pleated and candid. However, it’s much more interesting to observe how those who were recorded in the minimalists of modern fashion do with pleated. In the new season, Stella McCartney showed a lot of successful day dresses and suits sewn from flying fabric in a shallow fold, dyed in contrasting colors.
Stella McCartney, spring-summer 2016 collection
The relaxed daily Adam Lippes kits no less successfully work on the perception of accordion pleats as sensual fabrics. Proenza Schouler demonstrate how fabric in a small crease, which from afar looks like a print, successfully complements masculine things sewn from dense crepes.
Adam Lippes, spring-summer 2016 collection
Proenza Schouler, spring-summer 2016 collection
And, of course, the Pleats Pleats Issei Miyake, who opened a synthetic pleated window to Europe. This fabric continues to be part of its contemporary collections and the subject of a search for fashion treasure hunters in vintage boutiques.
Issey Miyake, spring-summer 2016 collection
The pleated, from which you can make a dress on a crinoline or a fantastic pajama outfit – performed by the famous Japanese fabric, formal European standards, began to be perceived as futuristic and innovative. No wonder the Dutch Iris van Herpen does her techno-couture things with diodes from pleated fabrics, complementing with accessories or parts made on a 3D printer.
Tags: 2016, Adam Lippes, Elie Saab, fashion, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Proenza Schouler, Sacai, spring-summer, spring-summer, fashion, Pleated, trends