In the rays of the rising sun

In parallel with Ukrainian Fashion Week, shows are held in Tokyo, Seoul and Shanghai. In Ukraine, not so much is known about Asian fashion, and even the opinions that exist are filled with common stereotypes from “everything is very conceptual there” to “they just do what they copy world brands”. But in fact, the view of the global fashion community is increasingly eastward. What are the main trends in fashion weeks in China, South Korea and Japan, and what they have in common with ours, I understood 23:59.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, October 12-18



Demna Gvasalia, named the new goofy director of Balenciaga, made his debut with his own collection at Tokyo Fashion Week in 2007. Afterwards, he worked on the Maison Martin Margiela team, created his wildly fashion brand Vetements, which fashion insiders loved with all their heart and who got into shorts list of nominees of LVMH Prize. The ingenious sense of the moment has never failed the designer for his entire short career, and the debut in the fashion week just gaining momentum is no exception. According to analysts, Tokyo has the potential to become one of the important fashion capitals. Inspired by this idea, local officials presented the Cool Japan Initiative program 3 years ago, in which it is planned to invest 50 billion yen ($ 50 million) in the local creative industry over 20 years. At the same time, the devil’s leg will break in the schedule of displays of Tokyo Fashion Week, and there’s not much to figure out without local chances. Anrealage, Blackmeans, Facetasm, Fur fur, Galaxxxy, Function Junction, The Soloist – you should look for the main Japanese brands both in the official schedule and outside it. According to Opening Ceremony buyers, they are looking for Japanese designers for their stores in tumblr and thanks to word of mouth: friends advise, they go watch. Only once the local designers united: after the earthquake, they posted photos of their collections on one site. We have a lot in common with the local fashion scene in Tokyo. Alignment to the west here is one of the main rules. International glossy magazines like Vogue in the main shootings prefer Western models, and foreigners are called to key fashion positions. The odious Anna Dello Russo, in addition to opening gouty knees in bright outfits, stylizes the shooting for the Japanese Vogue and takes an editor-at-large position in it, surrounding herself with a retinue of assistants and Italian editors. For local designers, the main icons are Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, who gained recognition in Paris and later at home. Their example is contagious, although there has been a clear change in strategy. Takeshi Osumi, designer of the main Japanese fashion discovery Phenomenon – a hefty Japanese man who is inspired by music and even named his brand in 2004 after the song Rap Phenomenon – prefers to arrange shows in his native expanses, instead of the distant weeks of fashion.

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His hype street wear, fused with the fusion of hip-hop subculture and deconstructivist Japanese fashion, so quickly became popular that the online streaming of his second show attracted 1,172 views. And, of course, street fashion in Japan is a success factor. Fans of the Harajuku style, named for the fashion district in Tokyo, have conquered the world with their ability to combine Gothic makeup with pink dresses. A perfect example is DJ, singer and jewelry designer Mademoiselle Yulia. Japanese-haired Japanese, however, is already a convertible product – it has become the main muse of avant-garde London brands like Nasir Mazhar and KTZ.

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Hera Seoul Fashion Week, October 15-21



The main supplier of youth subculture not only in Asia, but also in the whole world, South Korea gave the world the phenomenon of sweet-voiced dance K-Pop. Youtube opened a special channel, Jeremy Scott and Terry Richardson are fans of girls-band 2NE1, and the local street style, mixed with elements of hip-hop culture and raver shades, is a source of inspiration for youth fashion and exotic streets for designers around the world . Actually, the main thing is happening now not on the catwalks, but on the streets. The most successful brands like Juun.J (their clothes are worn by Rihanna and Karl Lagerfeld), KYE (a successful brand of streetwire), D.Gnak by Kang.D (named by Italian Vogue as one of the promising Korean brands) and Gentlemonster (make glasses of eccentric design) study convert the style of K-Pop into your design. The fact that many things are created for Asian figures makes them even more K-Pop for Europeans.

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During past shows, Irene Kim, a model, TV presenter and street fashion star, on attracted attention to the fashion week in her homeland. In this Hera Seoul Fashion Week, Jung Ku-ho became the main celebrity. Former designer, and now executive director of fashion week, in May received a new position and was immediately boycotted by other designers. New conditions were expected from him, loyal primarily to designers, and he raised the cost of participation in the week more than 2 times (from 4 million won ($ 3,443) to 10 million for a show with 1,000 seats). And yes, designers complain – buyers come to them as if for a walk when the budget for the next season is already closed after Milan-Paris.

Shanghai Fashion Week, October 13-21

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The process of joyful saturation with European fashion here goes through the early stages: logos are pleasing, the process of opening fashion brands is ongoing, fashion wardrobes are not crowded. According to the New York Times, in France two years ago an internal circular was issued for tourism workers about the behavior of the main nouveau riche (yes, the Chinese took this title from residents of the republics of the former USSR). The main refrain – they are demanding, but illegible. So they buy. Moreover, there are more imported ones than ours. To solve the problem and attract more attention, the organizers call Western brands with shows. Since 2011, Vivienne Westwood, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Diesel, Blumarine and Astrid Andersen brands have been showing here, who do not forget to present several exclusive models specifically for the event. Imrad Amed, the founder of Business of Fashion, the main media resource on fashion, visited the Shanghai Fashion Week shows with creative forums and public talks more than once and did not get tired of noting how much they invest in beginning designers – from providing locations to financial assistance. Thanks to an agreement between the British Fashion Council and Shanghai Fashion Week in the new season, several Chinese designers made their confident debut in London. Androgynous, playing on a combination of textures Haizhen Wang, minimalistic Renli Su, implicated in the game of prints and shapes Min Wu – beginner Chinese brands that are worth watching.


Min wu

Cond? Branch opened in Shanghai this year Nast Center of Fashion & Design, which teaches beginner designers. Ironically, one of the main countries supplying fakes and replicas represents a lot of creative talents. Designer Zhang Na, who was born in a family of artists, considers fashion a part of the art world and makes two brands at once. Fake Natoo's smart, sophisticated clothing has been enjoyed by the local audience and is sold in 30 multi-brand bottles. The second brand of Re-clothing Bank is single items, recycled from the assortment of second-hand stores. However, such an eco-initiative is not too accepted in China: consumers are clearly not yet ready for such a level of conscious consumption.

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